Ho Chi Minh City (TAN): This city, commonly known by its old name Saigon, is going through an extremely dynamic phase and it shows in its cuisine, says celebrated Vietnamese-American chef Peter Cuong Franklin.
Speaking to Vietnam Timeless Charm, the country’s official tourism administration portal, chef Franklin said he thought Saigon was among the most exciting food cities in the world.
“We can see more openness to new ideas. I’ve been quite surprised by the reception to this new Vietnamese cuisine,” says the chef, who runs the restaurant Anan in this city, which is Vietnam’s largest. Anan serves street food inspired dishes that are respectful of Vietnam’s history and traditions yet progressive and international in their outlook.
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Speaking about his food, chef Franklin says: “We want the people to not only enjoy the food but the way of eating which is sometimes using chopsticks or hands to work with the food. By doing this, they get a different experience.”
“One of the nice things about being in Saigon right now, is seeing the city being very dynamic. You can see it in the architecture changing, in the new buildings going up, in terms of the optimism in the people, the energy around — and I think on the food side we see a reflection of this as well,” he says.
According to chef Franklin, Vietnamese cuisine has incorporated a lot of influences.
“We have the core of Southeast Asian cultures — the herbs, the spice — then the Cantonese cuisine, and then the French influence, which is the foundation of a lot of Western cooking,” he says. “When you look at pho, the broth is from French techniques, the spices from Chinese techniques, and the fresh herbs and raw beef are a very Vietnamese thing. When you put it all together, you have a great dish based on these things.”
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“I think Saigon is one of the most exciting food cities in the world,” he says.
Ruing that Vietnamese food was under-appreciated at the global level, chef Franklin said: “People know it’s good but they think of it on a cheap, low level. So what we’re trying to do is to say Vietnamese cuisine can compare to Japanese cuisine or French cuisine, for example. We’re trying to elevate Vietnamese food to that level. We’re slowly trying to change people’s minds, using good cooking techniques, good ingredients.”